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MARCEL’S
2401 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20037
202/296-1166
www.marcelsdc.com

Dinner: Monday – Thursday, 5:30–10 pm;
Friday-Saturday, 5:30-11 pm; Sunday, 5:30-9:30 pm
Valet parking and complimentary limousine service to and from
The Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts

Food: Service:

Reviewed by BeBe King

ashington, DC is fortunate to have an extraordinary number of dedicated chefs at the helm of their own restaurants, who have demonstrated their unfailing creativity over a period of years. Robert Wiedmaier, chef/owner of Marcel’s, is one of those remarkable men and women. Opened in 1999, Marcel’s classic French cuisine has many inventive touches and Flemish refinements derived from the chef’s Belgian heritage. Wiedmaier was voted Distinguished Restaurants of North America’s Chef of the Year in 2003 and his establishment is among Zagat’s Top 10 Restaurants in DC. Dining at Marcel’s is guaranteed to provide an evening of superb food, charming décor and pampered service.

We usually begin with a Kir Royale and, if we ask, the sommelier will bring the champagne and cassis to our table so we can determine the exact degree of sweetness we prefer in our cocktail. While we are studying the menu, we will be presented with an amuse bouche. On one recent visit, this consisted of a demi tasse of Gazpacho with Strawberries and Apple topped with a drizzle of Valdorona olive oil and on another of a Lobster Flan with a Brioche Crouton infused with lemon.

One of our favorite appetizers is a Gratin of Prince Edward Island Mussels with Roasted Garlic Cream, in which the tiny mussels are removed from their shells and served tender and piping hot under their robe of rich sauce. Wiedmaier’s Boudin Blanc is a signature dish, served with Celery Root Purée and Truffle Red Wine Essence. A simple presentation of Foie Gras with Figs and a Pepper Brioche allows the perfectly prepared liver to shine. The ravioli of Duck Confit with Orange Segments and Peppercorn Sauce is rich and complex. In season, Soft Shell Crabs are a fixture in most good Washington restaurants and Wiedmaier’s are fried in a thin batter and presented with a creamy Spinach Risotto. A Pistachio-Encrusted Duck Liver Pâté with Toast, Micro Greens and Cerleriac Salad is another winner, as is the Roasted Tomato Soup with Goat Cheese Flan and Parmesan Straws. An Ahi Tuna Tartare with Avocado Mousse, Diced Mango and Soy Vinaigrette is an exquisite combination of flavors.

Among the main courses, Bison is often featured on Marcel’s menu. We have sampled this tender, lean meat on three occasions recently: with Morel Ragu, White Asparagus and Sweet Pea Puree; with a Succotash which included tiny chioggia (pale pink) beets and with Chanterelles, Fava Beans and Corn Cabernet Reduction. Veal Shank with Creamy Polenta, Grape Tomatoes, Bone Marrow Flan and Veal Jus is the ultimate in sophisticated comfort food. Pepper Encrusted Hereford Beef Strip Loin with Potato Gratin, Stilton Fan and Cabernet Reduction is a beef-lover’s dream. Lamb Tenderloin Baked in Phyllo with Cumin Madeira Sauce is a delicious riff on the more traditional Beef Wellington. Among the fish dishes, we have had Wild Alaskan Halibut served with Yellow Ratatouille and Micro Basil and also with Baby Carrots, Spinach Risotto and Crispy Salsify; both are delicious. Alaskan Salmon with Baby Spinach, Potato Crisp and Lemon-Caper Butter and Seared Ahi Tuna with Micro Fennel and a Julienne of Red Peppers are excellent. A Symphony of Seafood Stew with Spinach in a Saffron Broth with Raviolis, a signature dish, is a satisfyingly flavorful for those who wish to cut calories.

For dessert, we often order pastry chef Robert Underwood’s Roasted Figs with a Thyme Mille Feuille, Honey and Goat Cheese. The intense flavor of the figs is complimented by the sweet pastry cream in the mille feuille and the tanginess of the cheese. Puff Pastry Wrapped Poached Pear filled with Almond Cranberry Filling and served with Vanilla Ice Cream is a divine signature dish. A classic Chocolate Soufflé is also offered, as are a variety of house-made fruit sorbets in season. In lieu of a sweet, we sometimes order the excellent Assortment of Regional Cheeses. On a recent visit we accompanied the cheeses with a glass of outstanding 20 year old Fonseca Port.

Marcel’s has received Wine Spectator’s Best Award of Excellence. Sommelier Ramón Narváes presides over a list that features many fine French wines. We have also enjoyed two outstanding American vintages: Shiraz Napa Valley Mi Sueño 2002 and Witness Tree Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon 2006.

The tuxedo-clad wait staff is superbly trained, deft, welcoming and thoroughly professional. Jonathan has been our favorite server for more years than we can remember and his warm hospitality always makes us feel at home.

Chef Wiedmaier and his Chef de Cuisine, Paul Stearman, preside over a raised kitchen overlooking the entrance, a Wine Bar and the main dining room. There is a Garden Room at the rear of the restaurant for overflow and private parties. There is also seating on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant, but we’ve never seen anyone dining there. Perhaps the heavy traffic on Pennsylvania Avenue is a deterrent, but also such serious cuisine and elegant service is better appreciated in a more formal setting.

Marcel’s offers a pre-theatre dinner of three courses for $48, exclusive of drinks, tax and gratuity. When you finish, a chauffeur will be waiting to drive you to the nearby Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts and will fetch you back to the restaurant when the performance ends. It is pleasant to finish your evening’s entertainment with a nightcap in the Wine Bar before the valet brings your car for the trip home. Tasting menus of three to six courses, which change daily, are offered for $58 to $98.

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